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Hi this is my first post here so I just wanted to say hello to everyone here.I have a base model Henry lever action rifle. Its the model H001. The problem that I'm having is that when I try and shoot the rifle at 100 yards the bullet never hits the target. It will always be about a foot or more below the target and it will continue to do this no matter how I set the rear sight. I tried shooting CCI Blazer and Federal Bulk ammo and its still the same. I looked at the rifling and it seemed fine.
I bought this rifle new in the box so I wondering should I just send it back or should I just try to play around with it some more? The windage is fine but the elevation is not responding to my adjustments.
I'm not new to iron sights I have a Wasr 10/63 AK-47 a Yugo SKS M59/66 A1 and a Mosin Nagant M91/30 I shoot all of them with iron sights and never had any problems like this. I also have a Marlin 925 that I used with the iron sights for a while. Also just for the heck of it I also aimed the rifle above the target with the rear sight maxed out on elevation and the same thing happened.
This business about this particular revolver's high front site blade is ongoing for several years now. Just file down the sight until it suits you. Amount of Error: Measure in inches the distance from the bullseye to your shot. Sight Radius: Distance in inches from the front sight to the rear sight. Distance to Target: The distance in inches from your shooting position to the target. Note: Be sure that your rear sight is at its mid-point before you shoot.
@ Postal Bob. My dads 10/22 carbine shoots great at 100 yards with iron sights and the barrels are about the same length or is there something that I'm [email protected] It just came with a front sight hood.I had a henry that was the same way, I just shot it at 50 yards. My 10/22 can do 100 as yours, but still.22 lr is just not meant for 100 yards.I'd sight that henry in at 50 and just be happy with 0-75 yard shots, or invest in a new higher fromt sight. From what I remember this is no easy task with the henry because of the hooded front sight though.
Yea dude, it is what is. I think of the marlin as being a short range plinker, not a.22 nail driver. I liked it because it was rugged, slick and light. Perfect small game trail rifle. My 10/22 I demand a little bit more accuracy from, but that also has a heavy barrel and a bunch of other goodies.I'm sure a shorter front site would be solve your problem, but I have no idea who makes aftermarket sights for henry.
If it is a 3/8' dovetail slot just order a taller one from midwayusa. Otherwise maybe try filing the current sight down a bit. Perhaps I'm revealing my ignorance here, but I have a similar rifle (Golden Boy) and the rear sight is rather strange to me. The notch in the rear sight is very deep into the blade. Like this, I always thought that at shorter range like 25 yards you would put the front sight post in the bottom of the notch, while at longer range like 100 yards you would line it up with the top of the rear sight.
I'm not describing this well at all and I could be wrong here. But I'm thinking before you go modifying the gun you may consider that you might be aiming the gun wrong. Just thinking out loud.:X.
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I had Mr Alex Hamilton put a set of BoMars on my 1996A2 Wilson and he did a most excellent job.My question is, When zeroed with the loads I shoot in my gun the rear sight is a little higher than I would like. I can shorten my front sight blade which will raise point of impact allowing me to adjust the rear sight down to correct for it, while lowering the sight closer to the slide like I want it.What I would like to know is what is the best way to make the front sight shorter while keeping it square and level (its a partridge type) I don't want to scarhack the slide and I don't have a milling machine. What is the best way to proceed? Hi,Here is a way to keep things on the front post square. It won't hurt things if you go straight and easy.Clear pistol of magazine and make sure chamber is empty.
Drop the slide and hammer.Try to keep the sight square as you file very close to your desired height. Remember to file with the front of the front sight post a little bit lower than the rear to eliminate glare when using the pistol.To ensure absolute squareness without a mill you will need a long smooth tooth file. Lay the gun upside down on the file with the front sight on the teeth and the rear sight top on the untoothed end of the file. Grasp the pistol by the slide near the rear sight. Just 'cover' the gun at the front. Stay cautious during this to make sure you don't drop your gun.Carefully slide the gun back and forth along the file making sure not to run the rear sight blade onto the teeth of the file. Check every few strokes by taking a sight picture.
File until your sight picture exhibits a nice square front post.There will be some burrs along the top of the post when you are finished which should be stoned or touch filed off. Touch up with cold blue. Touch up the top of the rear sight blade if needed.This has worked for me. I have heard of a version of Magnumite's recommendation:epoxy a piece of thin brass sheet metal over about half of a large but fine file's teeth.
Put the rear sight on the brass, the front on the exposed teeth. File and check. Do the trigonometry so you will know how much to cut. This will put a slight taper on the front sight blade which will prevent any glare off the top of the blade after it is cold blued. Just like Mr. Patridge designed it.
His sights were tapered on all surfaces to be sure only the rear face of the post was visible. Too much trouble to make now, of course.
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